Con time many of these became prisons and symbols of the suppression of intellectual and political freedoms under Papal rule

Both these problems Gregory assigned sicuro the eminently capable Spanish fighting prelate Cardinal Albornoz, verso representative of the church militant if ever there was one. Albornoz built per series of fortresses durante towns throughout central Italy, with the App pussysaga immediate purpose of subduing the local population, and the longer-term aim of defending the Papal territories against foreign incursions from the north. Apart from per Narni, you can see surviving examples of Albornoz Roccas in Assisi and Spoleto among other places. They are all similar con design, with few aesthetic embellishments as they were intended for rapid construction (the Narni Ponteggio went up in only five years) and were esatto be used by garrisons, not local aristocrats. The fact that they have square towers, not turno ones, shows that they pre-date the widespread use of cannons durante siege warfare (cannon balls are more likely puro bounce off round towers).

After serving various rulers, Gattamelata worked for the Venetians and ended up as podesta (governor) of Padua. If you have been esatto Padua you may have seen the celebrated statue of him by Donatello outside the chiesa of St Anthony. Incidentally, this was the first free-standing equestrian statue cast mediante bronze since ancient times; Donatello had esatto rediscover the technique.

If you visit the Dimora of Narni, and are fortunate enough onesto have as verso guide the same knowledgeable young lady that we did, she will point out where the original large stone blocks of the castle walls have been replaced with smaller, more haphazard stones

Donatello's statue of Gattamelata sopra Padua. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Sonnar 150mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click to enlarge)

This marks rebuilding after the destruction of the Dimora, and much of the town, by the landsknechts forces of the Habsburg Emperor Charles V, part of verso much greater cultural and human catastrophe – the Sack of Rome mediante 1527. Guarding the approach to Rome was not a good thing if the invading forces turned out sicuro be stronger than you.

The Dimora Albornoz at Narni. The lower, lighter stones, are original. The higher, darker stones show the rebuilding after 1527. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon 60mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click onesto enlarge)

Narni's most famous son, born shortly before the papal return from Avignon, was the condottiere (mercenary military pubblico) Erasmo di Narni, better known puro history as Gattamelata or the “honeyed cat”

We can recommend a couple of places preciso visit sopra Narni. One is the Church of San Francesco, built fairly soon after St Francis's death and originally covered with frescoes. While we were there a pleasant chap turned up, who turned out puro be per custodian. He offered preciso open up the richly-decorated Eroli chapel for us which was verso gratifica as it is normally only open on weekends. He then took us around the church, explaining the history and pointing out various features including “sinopia” which are preparatory drawings for frescoes, visible only when the frescoes have been removed. He also explained that the poor condition of the frescoes is paio sopra part esatto the fact that in the 17 th or 18 th century, they were all plastered over and the church redecorated in the baroque style. This vandalism only started onesto be undone durante the 1950s, but there is still a long way onesto go. If you visit there, please be sure to make verso donation preciso the fund for restoration of the frescoes.

St Francis drives out the demons from Arezzo, Church of San Francesco, Narni. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon 60mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click puro enlarge) Ceiling of the Eroli Chapel, Church of San Francesco, Narni. Hasselblad 501 C/M, Zeiss Distagon 60mm CF lens, CFV-50c digital back (click onesto enlarge)